“Two separate loads,” I said, pointing to the bags.
“Two loads,” he repeated.
“Cold water,” I requested. Although I had imagined walking over to the machines to show him the correct setting, his lexicon of laundry English was better than I had realized.
“Both cold?” he asked. “White and colors?”
“Yes. Both cold.”

Usually, I wash my own clothes. I am picky about how it’s done. I don’t trust the bubblegum pink industrial detergent that the local laundry uses; it reminds me of the mildewy antiseptic used to disinfect subway stations. Both make a halfhearted attempt to smell like candy.
Tonight, though, I’m packing for South Africa, and I don’t have time to sit with the laundry. I’m tired and stressed, and having difficulty remembering my manners, much less conveying them to the launderer in a limited shared vocabulary of gestures. I realize that I don’t even know his name, in spite of the hours spent together under these fluorescent lights, late at night, sorting and folding. When I found him this evening, he was standing in front of a triple load washer, a pile of rags at his feet. In spite of the summer heat, he wore a grey sweatshirt pushed up to the elbows and pale yellow latex cleaning gloves, labeled in long-faded, markered-on Korean characters on the forearm. I tried to connect the characters to the man, like a nametag, but before I could even imagine their sound, he had pulled off his gloves and picked up my bags, depositing them on the scale. He told me the price, $10.40, and wrote me a receipt.

“What time?” I asked.
He scratched the short, thinning black hair at the back of his neck as he consulted his watch. “Twelve?”
“Midnight?” I asked. “Can it be earlier?”
“What time you come?” he asked.
“Ten?”
“OK. I start now.”
I walked out of the harsh white of the laundry and back into the blue and orange of the humid Harlem night. Passing the precinct, brawny cops nodded in my direction. Two well-dressed women stood on the corner of 135th and Adam Clayton Powell. I had seen them on my way to the Laundromat, walking in the other direction, but now they had stopped to finish their conversation. The men who passed the afternoon at their chess tables along Seventh Avenue, casting a wide net with their catcalls, had given way to a younger crowd of smooth talkers. One of them calls “how you doin’”, and I call “hello” back, without slowing my stride.

I prefer any other chore to laundry: cleaning the kitchen or the bathroom, washing dishes, grocery shopping, even killing the mice that come up through the floor beneath the kitchen sink and get caught in glue traps. Those are mindless activities that I can do while listening to music or NPR. Grocery shopping in New York is never mundane; navigating piles of produce twice my height amidst hoards of other harried shoppers, conferring on their cell phones, debating the sharpness of cheeses or the weight of a fruit in any number of languages, holding up the lines with their very specific requests (a quarter pound of organic smoked turkey breast, thinly sliced, please; espresso habanero, half pound, coarsely ground) is entertainment enough to make the trip worthwhile.
Laundry, on the other hand, demands that I drag my suitcase full of clothes down five flights of stairs and two blocks, babysit them while they wash and dry, fold them, and then lug them back up the five flights to my apartment. At times I’ve taken papers to grade or a book to read, but I’m never able to accomplish much. I get distracted by the television, the Judge Judy and made-for-TV movies and Who Wants to be a Millionaire? The high drama of the game shows and the outrageous arguments on talk TV suck me in. Quieter moments on the television are filled in by the Pick-your-prize game, which repeats the same eight bars of driving, electronic videogame music over and over again in the background.
It could be a place of cleansing, of meditation. There is absolutely no possibility of substantive intellectual stimulation; I could let my mind go blank. Except that then I wouldn’t find out who killed that bleach-blond lady’s son, or the answer to the $25,000 question. I get a very snobbish pleasure from being annoyed by Judge Judy’s blatant sentimentality. The cold, fluorescent light and white floors highlight the dust bunnies and lint balls in the corners.

When I return for my laundry, the Korean launderer greets me excitedly. “I know your name,” he says. “It’s Kelly.” I try to remember having written it somewhere, but all I had told him was my telephone number. “How do you know?” I ask. From his desk, he carefully retrieves a small appointment card with my name and the date of the appointment written in a schoolmaster’s cursive. “It fall from the pocket. I go to throw it,” he demonstrates, chucking an imaginary card into the trash can, and making me aware of what else may have been lost from two weeks’ worth of unchecked pockets. “Then I see your name, Kelly. My daughter name also Kelly. I keep the card for you.” He tells me this while smiling broadly and handing me a garbage bag full of my clothes, folded and stacked into a neat brick. I thank him very much and tip generously, but forget to ask his name.

Los niños habían de recordar por el resto de su vida la augusta solemnidad con que su padre se sentó en la cabecera de la mesa, devastado por la prolongada vigilia y por el encono de su imaginación, y les reveló su descubrimiento:

–La tierra es redonda como una naranja.

Úrsula perdió la paciencia. “Si has de volverte loco, vuélvete tú solo,” gritó. “Pero no trates de inculcar a los niños tus ideas de gitano.”


Quiera o no, tengo sangre gitana. Tanto he caminado que ningún lugar me acomoda si no es una frontera, un espacio entre el aquí y el allá; tradición y novedad; hoy, ayer, y mañana. Por eso me enamoré de Nueva York y de mi trabajo de maestra—me fascinaron las maneras inteligentísimas en que los niños buscaban acomodar el español al ritmo y la rapidez de Nueva York, y como inventaban un inglés españolizado. Mientras los ortodoxos se quejan de este dialecto chucho, los académicos tratan de elevarlo como una adaptación eficaz del lenguaje a las necesidades de los inmigrantes. (Sabrás en qué campo estás por esta simple prueba: La frase, “llámame para atrás,” ¿te da un ataque de nervios, o te recuerda de una llamada que tienes que devolver?) Por mi parte, lo escuchaba y me asombraba, a veces me reía, a veces me caía mal, pero siempre me cautivaba el proceso de un niño que a la misma vez que va conociendo un mundo que no acaba de construirse, crea un lenguaje para expresarlo.

Como ejemplo, te ofrezco una cita preciosa, dicha por mi alumna Yanira* cuando le dije que trabajaría con un compañero suyo: “Ay, maestra, yo no quiero trabajar con Francisco*, porque Francisco es un boy y yo quiero trabajar con una girl.” La Real Academia vería esta mezcla como una contaminación del idioma, pero el buen observador sabe que la RAE no ofrece una palabra adecuada para lo que Yanira quiso decir. En todas las culturas, las interacciones entre niños y niñas siguen reglas distintas; Yanira aprendió por la televisión y la conducta de sus compañeros aquí nacidos que en EEUU, a los nueve años, los niños y las niñas se rechazan. Boys are gross. Decir lo mismo en español, “los niños son asquerosos,” no significa nada semejante. Entonces Yanira hizo un ajusto muy astuto a su lenguaje.

Mi trabajo de maestra de español también me forzaba a navegar entre dos polos opuestos: el de reconocer y valorar el Spanglish (como por mi naturaleza suelo hacer), y el de insistir en un español “puro” o académico. El mismo debate existe hace tiempo ya acerca de cómo apreciar el inglés afro-americano y a la misma vez enseñar un inglés “blanco”, “académico”, que le dé al alumno negro acceso a la universidad y el mercado laboral controlado por los blancos. En el caso del inglés negro, ya tenemos muchos modelos que confirman no solamente que el inglés negro puede incorporar lenguaje y estructuras de la academia blanca, sino que el inglés “blanco” no es adecuado para hablar de la experiencia negra en Estados Unidos. Toni Morrison, ganadora del Premio Nóbel de Literatura; el poeta Langston Hughes; y la autora y antropóloga Zora Neale Hurston son algunos de los muchos escritores que han desarrollado una voz simultáneamente académica y vernacular: un idioma negro y profundamente literario.

Claro está que la ruta desde un colegio urbano al Premio Nóbel tiene menos pista que despistes, y ahí me encontré en otro espacio poco definido: maestra de español para hispanohablantes en Nueva York. Y para complicarlo aun más: soy blanca, y mi primer idioma es el inglés. Planteo la pregunta que nos hizo Silvio Rodríguez algunos años atrás:

Compañeros de historia,
tomando en cuenta lo implacable
que debe ser la verdad, quisiera preguntar
me urge tanto,
¿qué debiera decir, qué fronteras debo respetar?

Contesto con una respuesta de maestra de geografía: las fronteras son límites inventadas por el imaginario humano. Tan pronto como a uno se le ocurra inventar una nueva frontera, a otro se le ocurrirá cruzarla.

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